Monthly Archives: February 2011

Tonno di Coniglio

I first ate tonno di coniglio at Cascina Martini in Monferrato, Piedmont, a restaurant of the highest quality, and it is so typical of the cooking of the area. Tonno di coniglio is the inland version of tuna in oil, … Continue reading

Posted in Eating In | Leave a comment

Steamed herring with garlic and ginger

This is my version of a dish that Uncle Wu cooked as the staff lunch at the late Fung Shing in Lisle Street, London (see Food for Fort In Uncle Wu’s hands, it was a masterpiece of exquisite simplicity. I … Continue reading

Posted in Eating In | Leave a comment

The Butchers Arms

Fosdyke was insistent. “I want to go to a pub,” he said. “And I want to eat,” I said. “So?” he said. “So,” I said. So we went to The Butchers Arms at Eldersfield. God knows, good pubs serving good … Continue reading

Posted in Eating Out | Leave a comment

Grammel

God knows I’ve eaten some weird things in my time – snake, scorpions, ducks’ tongues, udder, stuff like that – but surely nothing so weird as grammel. It’s not even listed in Chambers Dictionary. Even Google, on which you can … Continue reading

Posted in Food for Fort | 2 Comments

Moshi Moshi Sushi

  This review first appeared in the Guardian in 2002, but I am so inordinately proud of it that I want to re-issue it here. Not much has changed at Moshi Moshi Sushi since then. The Japanese kaiten, or conveyor … Continue reading

Posted in Eating Out | Leave a comment

The Square

There’s something very reassuring about the Square. It’s always there, for a start. Well, it always seems to have been there, just down from Berkeley Square, just up from Bond Street. To be strictly accurate, it’s been one of the … Continue reading

Posted in Eating Out | Leave a comment

Requiescat Fung Shing

The notice on the website is brief: “Fung Shing Chinese Restaurant is
now closed due to the retirement of the owner. We would like to thank
all our customers for their loyalty over the years.” It’s like a cloud
passing over the sun. … Continue reading

Posted in Food for Fort | Leave a comment

Basic Meat Stock

I once spent three of the most interesting days of my life in the kitchens of a Chinese restaurant, Fung Shing, in Lisle Street, London, (see Food for Fort: Requiescat Fung Shing) watching the workings of the kitchen. Its presiding … Continue reading

Posted in Eating In | Leave a comment

Consomme au vin

I stared down. Bits of strawberry and nectarine and globs of semi-set jelly lay strewn all over the work surface. It had been supposed to be “fruit terrine”, which used to be something of a dinner party stunner way back … Continue reading

Posted in Eating In | Leave a comment

Days Cottage Apple Juice

Apples run through Gloucestershire in a crunchy, juicy, sweet and spicy seam. There are Gloucestershire apples for eating, like Ashmead’s Kernel, the apple of William Ashmead,  a connoisseur’s apple, sweet, sharp, spicy, with a firm white flesh, and Berkley Pippin, … Continue reading

Posted in Shopping List | Leave a comment