Monthly Archives: March 2011

Spaghetti with purple sprouting broccoli, garlic and chilli

I wouldn’t claim that there’s anything remotely original about this recipe. It’s just very, very nice for one. Or two. Or four, come to that. My brother Johnny, a long-time resident of Rome, likes to make it using a variety … Continue reading

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Kenniford Farm Kitchen

There are few things to match a well filled bacon bap when seasoned with a judicious splash of HP sauce . on a  Saturday morning, particularly after a rigorous Friday night. Last Saturday, we had pulled into the car park … Continue reading

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High Pollen Count

I wonder what they would make of oyster ice cream with  smoked eel pearl in Skegness, where Jason Atherton was born. And of the warm oyster in dashi that sat alongside it, come to that. And of the barbecued mackerel … Continue reading

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Ciccia in umido (aka stewed beef neck)

I was inspired by Dario Cecchini (see Food for Fort) to go and buy a bit of beef neck for Sunday lunch for 10 people. That was a bit of an adventure in itself. “I’ve can safely say,” said Peter … Continue reading

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Great Western, Wolverhampton

It’s a great pub, a proper pub, of a kind that’s almost extinct.   Crisp, smiling, friendly service. Coal fires. Railway & Wolves FC memorabilia clutter the walls. A poster advertising A Night with Steve Bull. No music or games. … Continue reading

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Dario Cecchini (2) – the technical bit

When I say esoteric meat cookery, it’s not often you get the opportunity to eat beef Achilles tendon or neck muscle or buttock. That’s the kind of thing in which Cecchini specialises. In British butchery, there are about 24 generally … Continue reading

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Dario Cecchini (1) – the story

“My name is Gilda,” said the striking-looking woman sitting next to me. “I am a lawyer. We are from Brazil.” She gestured to the two women beside her. “They are judges.” I blinked. The judges were of improbable youth and … Continue reading

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Fox & Grapes

What is life but a search for the perfect porky scratching? Well, I think I may have found them at the Fox & Grapes in deepest Wimbledon. They were agreeably crunchy, and yet easy on the teeth; restrained in fat … Continue reading

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In praise of Farming Today

I learn more about the country I live in, and the world at large, from Farming Today on Radio 4 than from any other single medium. The show in the day I wrote this was a typical mixture. The programme … Continue reading

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Confit of duck legs

There’s a lot of nonsense talked about confiting duck legs, making a mysterious ritual out of what is, essentially, a very easy, straightforward process. All it means is cooking the ducks’ legs low and slow in duck or goose fat. … Continue reading

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