Monthly Archives: April 2011

Belly Laugh

Posted on April 26, 2011 by

You learn the oddest things along the way. Apparently the real reason why pork belly is so expensive these days is not because chefs have suddenly taken such a liking to it (although it is cropping up all over the … Continue reading →

Posted in Food for Fort | 2 Comments

50 Best Restaurants

Posted on April 20, 2011 by

A moment’s thought is all you need to decide it’s a load of bollocks. Or, to be fairer, as a measure of great restaurants around the world, it’s bollocks; as a marketing wheeze it’s terrific. It’s the United Nations of … Continue reading →

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Pollen Street Social

Posted on April 18, 2011 by

At first sight the interior seems tasteful but unremarkable. White walls,dark blue  banquettes, wood trim, lights like dangling fruits, some nifty contemporary art. So far, so ordinary, you might think. Casual. Contemporary, comfortable. Nothing what you might call fancy about … Continue reading →

Posted in Eating Out | 7 Comments

Rhubarb & Blood Orange Tart

Posted on April 14, 2011 by

This dish has a bit of form. It started as my sister-in-law, Dilou’s lemon tart, which, as far as I am concerned is the pinnacle of the lemon tart universe. Far superior to those heavy-gravity, lemon-flavoured custards. To me there … Continue reading →

Posted in Eating In | 4 Comments

Zucca

Posted on April 14, 2011 by

I couldn’t see what all the fuss was about, to be honest. Several top eaters assured me that Zucca was hot. In a cool way, of course. Terrific Italian food, they said. Some of the best in London, they said. … Continue reading →

Posted in Eating Out | 3 Comments

Early thoughts on early asparagus

Posted on April 7, 2011 by

The British asparagus season heaves into view on St George’s Day, 23rd April, and runs until 21st June. Or so a press release tells me. I must say, I’m surprised that asparagus is so biddable, just popping up like that … Continue reading →

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Brasserie Joel

Posted on April 4, 2011 by

I remember as if it were but yesterday, the way the waiter broke the biscuity crust covering Joël Antunes’ chocolate soup and then poured a steady stream of opalescent pistachio cream on to the dark, glossy surface of the liquescent … Continue reading →

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Razor clams with wild garlic

Posted on April 3, 2011 by

I can never resist a razor clam. There is something elegant about its shell and something definitely rude about the clam bit sticking out the end, indicating just how lively they are. They also have an unparalleled marine sweetness which … Continue reading →

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