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- @SarahPlayfair I reduced the sugar and upped the number of elderflower heads. Our granny's tooth was notoriously sweet, if you remember. 23 hours ago
- Elderflower bursting into bloom smelling of cat's pee. By the alchemy of bit.ly/L7APlH turn it into muscat-scented champagne. 1 day ago
- Dispatch from Verona. It's not often you see both horse & donkey on the same menu. 5 days ago
- Went to sleep to the sound of nightingales & woke to the sound of cuckoos & peacocks. 6 days ago
- Culatello; tripe & bean soup; frogs' legs with mash & sweet garlic; squab with new seasons onions; cream of eggs & ricotta + nespole sorbet 6 days ago
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Monthly Archives: May 2011
Tucker’s Grave
They told me Tucker’s Grave was closed, they told it was shut. They brought me bitter news to hear, with no ifs or buts. I wept as I remembered how often Charles and I Had put the world to rights … Continue reading
Posted in Food for Fort
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Elderflower Champagne
Suddenly the creamy heads of elderflower are splashed all over the hedgerows. Time for elderflower champagne, that delight of summer that converts the cat’s pee smell of the flower into the extraordinary, flowery flavour of muscat. My granny used to … Continue reading
Posted in Eating In
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Induction Deduction
When I first got my Falcon Continental Cooker with its induction hob, I fell in love with it. Hitherto, I had been a Falcon gas man. Not any more. Induction was quicker. It was more efficient. It responded to the … Continue reading
Posted in Food for Fort
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Oh, for a gull’s egg
The season for gulls’ eggs is so short that, blink twice and you’ll miss it. In a normal year it runs for 3 or 4 weeks between April and May. This year, blink once, and you will have missed it, … Continue reading
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Knight of the White Shield
Steve Wellington is a legend. He’s the man who saved Worthington White Shield, that peerless tipple among British bottle-conditioned beers. He made a decent pint out of Inde Coop. He brought Worthington E, Imperial Stout and Barley Wine back from … Continue reading
Posted in Food for Fort
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Salted Pig’s Kidney Salad
We’ve all done it. Or, most home cooks have. Bought the wrong ingredient. It’s not often fatal, just irritating. I’d bought these pig’s kidneys, you see. Cheap as chips. Cheaper than chips, actually. But when I got back to the … Continue reading
Posted in Eating In
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Le Cafe Anglais
Note. This is not so much a review as a record of a particularly agreeable lunch. I wrote it during a short break in the break of the last Guardian Food Writing Course. Having commanded the cheery group who came … Continue reading
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Happy Birthday
Sir Terence Conran, the Blueprint Café’s original begetter, was there, as were D&D, the present owners. There was a fair sprinkling of senior chefs and restaurateurs – the Hendersons, Fergus and Margot, Bruce Poole, Richard Corrigan, the Clarks (Sam and … Continue reading
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Heirloom tomato blight
Bloody heirloom tomatoes. Wretched heritage carrots. The words ‘heirloom’ and ‘heritage’ are spreading like a pointless mildew across restaurant menus. I have lost count of the times I have said to a waiter ‘Tell me, these ‘heirloom’ tomatoes, what varieties … Continue reading
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Shaken Oak Hot & Smooth Mustard
Classy, classic, English mustard. Urbane, pungent and properly piquant.There’s a nice tang from cider vinegar. The characteristic bitter edge of English mustard is softened by honey. Altogether, a finely balanced condiment, from Shaken Oak, a small, family producer in Oxfordshire. … Continue reading
Posted in Shopping List
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