Monthly Archives: May 2011

Tucker’s Grave

They told me Tucker’s Grave was closed, they told it was shut. They brought me bitter news to hear, with no ifs or buts. I wept as I remembered how often Charles and I Had put the world to rights … Continue reading

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Elderflower Champagne

Suddenly the  creamy heads of elderflower are splashed all over the hedgerows. Time for elderflower champagne, that delight  of summer that converts the cat’s pee smell of the flower  into  the extraordinary, flowery flavour of  muscat. My granny used to … Continue reading

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Induction Deduction

When I first got my Falcon Continental Cooker with its induction hob, I fell in love with it. Hitherto, I had been a Falcon gas man. Not any more. Induction was quicker. It was more efficient. It responded to the … Continue reading

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Oh, for a gull’s egg

The season for gulls’ eggs is so short that, blink twice and you’ll miss it. In a normal year it runs for 3 or 4 weeks between April and May. This year, blink once, and you will have missed it, … Continue reading

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Knight of the White Shield

Steve Wellington is a legend. He’s the man who saved Worthington White Shield, that peerless tipple among British bottle-conditioned beers. He made a decent pint out of Inde Coop. He brought Worthington E, Imperial Stout and Barley Wine back from … Continue reading

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Salted Pig’s Kidney Salad

We’ve all done it. Or, most home cooks have. Bought the wrong ingredient. It’s not often fatal, just irritating. I’d bought these pig’s kidneys, you see. Cheap as chips. Cheaper than chips, actually. But when I got back to the … Continue reading

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Le Cafe Anglais

Note. This is not so much a review as a record of a particularly agreeable lunch. I wrote it during a short break in the break of the last Guardian Food Writing Course. Having commanded the cheery group who came … Continue reading

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