Monthly Archives: June 2011

Whiting with cured pigs cheeks, broad beans & perry

So what do you do with your cured pigs’ cheek, once you’ve got it? Use instead of bacon, or the absurdly over-priced and variable pancetta. That’s what I’ve done in this recipe, which could do as a fancy-ish fish course … Continue reading

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Cured Pig’s Cheek

This is the best bacon in the world. OK, it’s probably the best bacon in the world. It’s certainly the best bacon I’ve ever made. Look at the fat on it. Not to everyone’s hypersensitive taste, perhaps, but such fat, … Continue reading

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To horse, to horse!

A few weeks ago I wrote about the tradition of eating horse meat in this country. I knew that Yorkshire had been the last outpost of this particular delicacy. However, I had always thought the trade had died out in … Continue reading

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Shoulder of lamb braised with vinegar, garlic and anchovies

This is a variation on the great Roma dish, abbacchio alla cacciatora, which is usually made with milk-fed lamb and is served at Easter. I think it works really well with shoulder of lamb, particularly very young lamb. It gives  … Continue reading

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Colatura di Alici

I was wandering around the stalls of Eataly not far from Bra, the capital of Slow Food.  For those who don’t know, Eataly is a store – stores now –  dedicated to selling the finest Italian edibles and drinks that  … Continue reading

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Potato Salad with Colatura di Alici

The idea was given to me by Silvestro Greco,assessore all’Ambiente of the Regione Calabria, says John It’s his brainchild There’s no real recipe. you just boil the potatoes, mash them with extra virgin olive oil and chopped flat-leaf parsley, let them cool and dress them … Continue reading

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Broad beans – Judgement Day

The Cascina Lungha have been a let down. There’s no other way to put it. Healthy plants. Plenty of flowers. Fewer pods. But they were long and fat with promise. Keen expectation. And then crushing disappointment. The long,fat pods were … Continue reading

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Seed Saddos: Broad Beans

About sixteen years ago, I sat in the sunshine a large garden behind a high wall near the centre of Rome. It was lunchtime. There was a great bowl of broad beans, a plate piled with shavings of pecorino and … Continue reading

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Lido Restaurant

Devilled rabbit kidneys –  now there’s an item you don’t often see on menus these days. The chef is making a bit of a statement with rabbit kidneys, putting down a marker. The same with Cornish Earlies, potatoes, for anyone … Continue reading

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White Shield Man

Steve Wellington is a legend. He’s the man who saved Worthington White Shield, that peerless tipple among British bottle-conditioned beers. He brought Worthington E, Imperial Stout and Barley Wine back from the dead. He practiced what he preached in the … Continue reading

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