This is a picture of lettuce in my garden called Fat Lazy Blond Cow, or Grosse Blonde Paresseuse, a lovely, floppy French butterhead variety from about 1859. At a time when our plates are over-run with rocket, mizuna, perilla, red veined sorrel and various other peppy leaves, the rather more common or garden butterhead lettuces don’t get much of a mention. And yet I warm towards the easy-going comforts of the mild-mannered butterhead. It’s an easy eat after the spiky, flashy pleasure of the more fashionable salad ingredients. The broad spread of each leaf holds a decent slick of vinaigrette. They fold easily into the mouth, melt under pressure from the tongue, and give up their genial delicate, fresh flavours with a smile. I even have a sneaking liking for what used to be called salade bien fatigue, ie that has been left in the bowl for a few hours and has gone beyond floppy. But most of all, it makes the finest base for a salad to have with my home cured pigs cheek (aka guanciale), the recipe for which I will give another day.
Matt on Twitter
- @SarahPlayfair I reduced the sugar and upped the number of elderflower heads. Our granny's tooth was notoriously sweet, if you remember. 23 hours ago
- Elderflower bursting into bloom smelling of cat's pee. By the alchemy of bit.ly/L7APlH turn it into muscat-scented champagne. 1 day ago
- Dispatch from Verona. It's not often you see both horse & donkey on the same menu. 5 days ago
- Went to sleep to the sound of nightingales & woke to the sound of cuckoos & peacocks. 6 days ago
- Culatello; tripe & bean soup; frogs' legs with mash & sweet garlic; squab with new seasons onions; cream of eggs & ricotta + nespole sorbet 6 days ago
Categories
-
Recent Posts
Archives
Meta