Monthly Archives: July 2011

Potato Soup with Sorrel Ice Cream

Posted on July 28, 2011 by

I’m very fond of sorrel, but does have a certain unrelenting quality. It produces the first green shoot in the garden, the harbinger of all the goodies to come, I welcome it with enthusiasm. After a few weeks, my enthusiasm … Continue reading →

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Baked Brill with cucumber & brown shrimps

Posted on July 25, 2011 by

I was seduced. The brill just looked so beautiful on the crushed ice,  thick, glistening, speckled a fish in shiny Connemara tweed. And I had a daughter, a nephew and his wife for dinner. How could I resist. I didn’t. … Continue reading →

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Roganic

Posted on July 23, 2011 by

Nasturtium, meadowsweet, millet, orache, lovage, wood sorrel, chenopodiums (eh?), sweet cicely, verbena, hyssop, buckthorn – is there a hedgerow or coppice that hasn’t been picked over by Simon Rogan and his assiduous foragers? Over the last 8 years Rogan has … Continue reading →

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The Good, The Bad & The Greedy

Posted on July 13, 2011 by

Rather belatedly, someone emailed me the list of the 50 top food writers according to the Press Gazette. It has proved to be the source of a great deal of innocent amusement, not least at the thought of  Jay Rayner … Continue reading →

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Salad of potatoes, broad beans, beetroot tops and anchovies

Posted on July 7, 2011 by

The Rosval potatoes aren’t all that I had hoped for. So handsome in their bright red skins, fine and firm in texture, but somewhat evasive in flavour. But they’re perfect for the salad treatment. I’m rather proud of my way … Continue reading →

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Another Butchers Arms

Posted on July 7, 2011 by

 It’s not often that mine host presses a fillet of pearly-fresh whiting on you, just as you’re about to leave his pub, but then Stephen Bull is no ordinary mine host. He’s a bit older than most, for a start, … Continue reading →

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Gooseberry & blackcurrant compote with mint

Posted on July 7, 2011 by

Summertime. Or is it?  The living ain’t easy, the fish aren’t jumping and it’s cool and wet here today. Still, the gooseberries (Red Duke , a dusty purple, and deliciously sweet,  Leveller, classic, glassy green, and a touch tarter) are … Continue reading →

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