Monthly Archives: July 2012

Latest dispatch from the garden war zone

The potatoes (Sharp’s Express;Charlotte; Nadine) have done ok. The Sharp’s Express is still the finest of the First Earlies in my book: sweet as a nut; firm but not waxy; with an elusive, teasing earthiness. Very, very good just dug,just … Continue reading

Posted in Food for Fort | 1 Comment

Proper Books

Tom Parker Bowles is a friend. I like the chap. He’s passionate and knowledgeable. He has a mellifluous way with words on the page. Even rarer among food writers, he knows what a story is. He’s very good company. And … Continue reading

Posted in Food for Fort | Leave a comment

Diet of Worms

I knew it was a mistake as soon as I said it. ‘Dieting,’ I said to my companions, settling down for a spot of business at Zedel. ‘I’m on a diet.’ Well, not so much a diet as an intake … Continue reading

Posted in Food for Fort | 3 Comments

The Tramshed

Mark Hix’s Tramshed is a beast in every sense of the word – vast space (it really was a shed for trams); vaulting glass ceiling; bar the length of the room; 130 covers; Damien Hurst art installation of a cow … Continue reading

Posted in Eating Out | Leave a comment

Elizabeth David, advertising copywriter

Who wrote ‘Some of the very first cooking utensils I ever owned were orange-red cast-iron casseroles lined with white enamel…. Everything I cooked seemed to turn out right. They never played me an unwelcome trick. They were cheerful and clean- … Continue reading

Posted in Food for Fort | 5 Comments

Brasserie Zedel

Ou sont let plats d’antan? Gone to Zedel, every one of them. A dream of a dream, A dream of filet de hareng, pommes a l’huile,; lapin a la moutarde, baba au rhum, of celeri remoulade; choucroute alsacciene, éclair Paris … Continue reading

Posted in Eating Out | Leave a comment

Gormless Gove

It’s an absolutely classic government ploy. When you want to do nothing, call for a report. The Secretary of State for Education, Michael Gove, has called for Henry Dimbleby and John Vincent, the founders of Leon, the chain of healthy … Continue reading

Posted in Food for Fort | 8 Comments