Author Archives: Matt

About Matt

Food writer, television presenter and big eater.

A Cause for Celebration

In spite – because of? – its name and the national range of its contributors, Petits Propos Culinaires is one of those preposterous, brilliant, unmistakably English publications. It is, according to the press release that unfurled on my desk last … Continue reading

Posted in Food for Fort | 1 Comment

Ristorante del Belbo da Bardon

There are rare restaurants where you know that everything is going to be all right the moment you walk in. There’s something about the manner of the greeting, calm, warm, confident. There’s something about the way the place is decked … Continue reading

Posted in Eating Out | 3 Comments

Lie of the Land

I came across this statement in a wine catalogue the other day – ‘Made from 55% (by volume) terres blanches, where the marl gives pretty, floral, spicy aromas with freshness and lift, and 45% terres rouges, where more clay gives … Continue reading

Posted in Food for Fort | 2 Comments

Good intentions

You know what it’s like. At least, I hope you do. I started off this blog with the best in intentions. I was going to keep at it weekly if not daily. Then there was a bit of slippage. The … Continue reading

Posted in Food for Fort | 2 Comments

In search of the new ciabatta

It all began with ciabatta. In the mid-1980s, quite suddenly, ciabatta became the bread of choice for all smart, gastronomically aware households. You couldn’t go out for dinner without finding loafs of ciabatta sitting pertly on the bread board, torn … Continue reading

Posted in Food for Fort | 5 Comments

The Year of the Tomato

As far as I’m concerned, tomatoes are an autumn fruit in this country. I know there are those masters of nature who manage to produce their own magnificent crops in time for summer, but I’m not among them. My tomatoes … Continue reading

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Verbiage

The Roman Catholic Church used to have an Index of books (Index Librorum Prohibitorum) that the powers that be thought the world would be better off not reading. It was abolished in 1966. Although such censorship might not be seen … Continue reading

Posted in Food for Fort | 89 Comments

A Sort of Zucchini Frittata

Things are winding down in the Fort kitchen garden, after a pretty good growing season. The climbing beans (Signora della Campagna) are still up and running, and the autumn/winter salads are looking good. Best of all, this has been a … Continue reading

Posted in Eating In | 3 Comments

Noma

There was the great man, Rene Redzepi, standing at the door of Noma, surrounded by what appeared to be a battalion of Noma staff. ‘We’ve met before’, I said, grasping him firmly by the mitt. ‘I know,’ he said.’ You … Continue reading

Posted in Eating Out | 4 Comments

Grovelling Fort

I have been shamefully neglectful of my blog in recent months, and I can only apologise for those who have faithfully logged on, hoping for some fresh apercus on the shining universe of food. And I must begin with a … Continue reading

Posted in Food for Fort | 3 Comments