Category Archives: Eating In

One kind of lemon tart has become a common place of menus all over the country, great thick, globby, rich, custardy things, with an acid kick to them. This model was popularized, oh, years ago. Since then, it has taken … Continue reading →

What happened was this. My hostess said “Would you like some pheasants?’ ‘Why, yes,’ I said, and picked up a brace. They looked very handsome in their feathers. ‘Please take some more,’ pleased my hostess. “How many?’ I said. ‘As … Continue reading →

It may seem heretical, but I think scrambled egg should taste of egg. So no cream, no milk, no flavourings, aside from and tiny amount of butter, salt and pepper. Ok, chopped parsley, tarragon or chives, if you must. But … Continue reading →

 I first came across this idea in Michel Guerard’s imperishable Cuisine Minceur first published in France in – yikes – 1976 – and in Britain in 1977. I have made very minor changes, principally adding the zucchini because I had … Continue reading →

‘Hmm, it’s not the same as last year, Matty,’ said one. ‘But just as good,’ said another. ‘Just different. Not so sharp,’ said a third. Everyone’s a critic in my family. There were, what 24 of us, gathered for the … Continue reading →

I’m very fond of sorrel, but does have a certain unrelenting quality. It produces the first green shoot in the garden, the harbinger of all the goodies to come, I welcome it with enthusiasm. After a few weeks, my enthusiasm … Continue reading →

I was seduced. The brill just looked so beautiful on the crushed ice,  thick, glistening, speckled a fish in shiny Connemara tweed. And I had a daughter, a nephew and his wife for dinner. How could I resist. I didn’t. … Continue reading →

The Rosval potatoes aren’t all that I had hoped for. So handsome in their bright red skins, fine and firm in texture, but somewhat evasive in flavour. But they’re perfect for the salad treatment. I’m rather proud of my way … Continue reading →

Summertime. Or is it?  The living ain’t easy, the fish aren’t jumping and it’s cool and wet here today. Still, the gooseberries (Red Duke , a dusty purple, and deliciously sweet,  Leveller, classic, glassy green, and a touch tarter) are … Continue reading →

So what do you do with your cured pigs’ cheek, once you’ve got it? Use instead of bacon, or the absurdly over-priced and variable pancetta. That’s what I’ve done in this recipe, which could do as a fancy-ish fish course … Continue reading →