Category Archives: Food for Fort

Thoughts on food

Mount Nelson Hotel

She can’t have been more than five or six. With single-minded determination she lugged what looked to be a wrought-iron holder for a vase or wine bucket almost as tall as herself, up to the top of the short flight … Continue reading

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Shaun Hill

I’ve known Shaun Hill for – what? – over 25 years. He has just passed the 65 mark. It seems scarcely credible. His curly hair, which looks like a barrister’s wig, is whiter, and his tummy a little rounder than … Continue reading

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That Sicilian Dinner

I started cooking at 9.15 am. The last course went off at 10.25pm. I got to bed at 2.30am. And aside from a bit of a nerve tonic at about midday, I was preparing my Sicilian dinner in the kitchens … Continue reading

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What’s the problem?

Have you ever got half-way through a plate of something, and thought ‘I’m not sure that that this is such a good idea?’ I don’t mean because it tastes vile, but because the collateral damage it’s causing to your companions, … Continue reading

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What to Eat by Joanna Blythman

Joanna Blythman is a national treasure, and I don’t care which nation we’re talking about. Technically she may be Scottish, but we should all cherish her. She is the keeper of the nation’s food conscience, and has been for a … Continue reading

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French Cricket

Battle of Plassey. 27th June 1757. As every school child used to know. Robert Clive (aka Clive of India) biffs the Nabob of Bengal, and his French backers. Result: the effective end of French influence in India. We give the … Continue reading

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Jean Fort, 1915-2012

The evening before her 90th birthday, my mother cooked dinner for 12 of us. There was full-bodied venison and chestnut stew followed her incomparable crème caramel and an orange salad, and a good deal to drink and the usual wall … Continue reading

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Sicily Unpacked

Perhaps it’s a bit late in the day to draw anyone’s attention to it, but at last a tv series about food that manages to be perceptive, informative and diverting (aside from the Great British Menu, of course). Sicily Unpacked … Continue reading

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Serious Bollocks

Yesterday the Government ushered in the New Year with another splendid initiative. Four million recipe leaflets will be mailed to families already signed up to the government’s Change 4 Life public health campaign. Change 4 Life, in case you’ve forgotten … Continue reading

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Thoughts on leaving The Guardian

My final regular contribution to The Guardian appeared last Saturday. My first appeared in October 1988. When Alan Rusbridger rescued me from the slough of advertising,, and, on a whim and a prayer, so it seemed to me, offered me … Continue reading

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