Tonno di Coniglio

I first ate tonno di coniglio at Cascina Martini in Monferrato, Piedmont, a restaurant of the highest quality, and it is so typical of the cooking of the area. Tonno di coniglio is the inland version of tuna in oil, and it expresses the ingenuity of agricultural communities far from the sea. Fresh sea fish […]

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The Butchers Arms

Fosdyke was insistent. “I want to go to a pub,” he said. “And I want to eat,” I said. “So?” he said. “So,” I said. So we went to The Butchers Arms at Eldersfield. God knows, good pubs serving good food are not nearly so numerous as they ought to be. And good pubs that […]

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God knows I’ve eaten some weird things in my time – snake, scorpions, ducks’ tongues, udder, stuff like that – but surely nothing so weird as grammel. It’s not even listed in Chambers Dictionary. Even Google, on which you can find everything there is to find in the whole universe, is remarkably terse on the […]

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Moshi Moshi Sushi

  This review first appeared in the Guardian in 2002, but I am so inordinately proud of it that I want to re-issue it here. Not much has changed at Moshi Moshi Sushi since then. The Japanese kaiten, or conveyor belt, restaurant has been with us for a few years now. Moshi Moshi Sushi was […]

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The Square

There’s something very reassuring about the Square. It’s always there, for a start. Well, it always seems to have been there, just down from Berkeley Square, just up from Bond Street. To be strictly accurate, it’s been one of the outstanding landmarks of London eating for 20 years. Twenty years! That’s a lifetime in terms […]

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Requiescat Fung Shing

The notice on the website is brief: “Fung Shing Chinese Restaurant is
now closed due to the retirement of the owner. We would like to thank
all our customers for their loyalty over the years.” It’s like a cloud
passing over the sun. Some years ago I sat in Fung Shing listening for more than 20
minutes to two […]

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