You should learn from your mistakes. The lesson I learned from cooking truite au porto, a classic dish from the Auberge du Pere Bise at Talloire (this was in my very ambitious days) was never try it again. It wasn’t the trout’s fault, or even the recipe. But I hadn’t noticed that the oven had broken down at a crucial point in the cooking. “I though something was wrong,” said Stephen, ”When the fish winked at me from the plate.” This is what I do with sea trout instead.. Of course, the sea trout season is over, it works with salmon equally well. Indeed, it is a variation on another classic dish, the escalope de saumon a l’oseilles from the Freres Troisgros at Roanne . Salmon , thanks to the miracles of supermarkets, is available all the year round. Personally I only use organic salmon. The other stuff is an affront to the tastebuds and digestive season.
2 shallots, peeled and finely chopped
115ml white wine or, better still, Chambéry vermouth
115ml whipping cream
4 salmon escalopes
First make the sauce. Over medium heat, melt the butter in a frying pan and sauté the shallots until soft. Add the sorrel and wine, and boil hard until the liquid has reduced by half. Whip the cream, fold into the sorrel/wine sludge and keep in a warm place.
In a non-stick pan wiped with a little vegetable oil, fry the escalopes of salmon skin side down until cooked most of the way through – about six to eight minutes. Flip over and brown the top side. Serve with the sorrel sauce.