Monthly Archives: April 2011

Belly Laugh

You learn the oddest things along the way. Apparently the real reason why pork belly is so expensive these days is not because chefs have suddenly taken such a liking to it (although it is cropping up all over the … Continue reading

Posted in Food for Fort | 2 Comments

50 Best Restaurants

A moment’s thought is all you need to decide it’s a load of bollocks. Or, to be fairer, as a measure of great restaurants around the world, it’s bollocks; as a marketing wheeze it’s terrific. It’s the United Nations of … Continue reading

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Pollen Street Social

At first sight the interior seems tasteful but unremarkable. White walls,dark blue  banquettes, wood trim, lights like dangling fruits, some nifty contemporary art. So far, so ordinary, you might think. Casual. Contemporary, comfortable. Nothing what you might call fancy about … Continue reading

Posted in Eating Out | 7 Comments

Rhubarb & Blood Orange Tart

This dish has a bit of form. It started as my sister-in-law, Dilou’s lemon tart, which, as far as I am concerned is the pinnacle of the lemon tart universe. Far superior to those heavy-gravity, lemon-flavoured custards. To me there … Continue reading

Posted in Eating In | 4 Comments


I couldn’t see what all the fuss was about, to be honest. Several top eaters assured me that Zucca was hot. In a cool way, of course. Terrific Italian food, they said. Some of the best in London, they said. … Continue reading

Posted in Eating Out | 3 Comments

Early thoughts on early asparagus

The British asparagus season heaves into view on St George’s Day, 23rd April, and runs until 21st June. Or so a press release tells me. I must say, I’m surprised that asparagus is so biddable, just popping up like that … Continue reading

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Brasserie Joel

I remember as if it were but yesterday, the way the waiter broke the biscuity crust covering Joël Antunes’ chocolate soup and then poured a steady stream of opalescent pistachio cream on to the dark, glossy surface of the liquescent … Continue reading

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