Tucker’s Grave

They told me Tucker’s Grave was closed, they told it was shut. They brought me bitter news to hear, with no ifs or buts. I wept as I remembered how often Charles and I Had put the world to rights there, and laughed until we cried.   And how I dined out royally on crisps […]

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Elderflower Champagne

Suddenly the  creamy heads of elderflower are splashed all over the hedgerows. Time for elderflower champagne, that delight  of summer that converts the cat’s pee smell of the flower  into  the extraordinary, flowery flavour of  muscat. My granny used to make this non-(or very low) alcoholic fizz. It seems astonishing to me that the dainty, […]

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Induction Deduction

When I first got my Falcon Continental Cooker with its induction hob, I fell in love with it. Hitherto, I had been a Falcon gas man. Not any more. Induction was quicker. It was more efficient. It responded to the smallest adjustment of its control knobs. It was easier to keep clean. It was the […]

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Oh, for a gull’s egg

The season for gulls’ eggs is so short that, blink twice and you’ll miss it. In a normal year it runs for 3 or 4 weeks between April and May. This year, blink once, and you will have missed it, as I did. There I was, trotting along to Bentley’s in Swallow Street, looking forward […]

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Knight of the White Shield

Steve Wellington is a legend. He’s the man who saved Worthington White Shield, that peerless tipple among British bottle-conditioned beers. He made a decent pint out of Inde Coop. He brought Worthington E, Imperial Stout and Barley Wine back from the dead. He practised what he preached in the micro-brewery that was, no, is, the […]

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Salted Pig’s Kidney Salad

We’ve all done it. Or, most home cooks have. Bought the wrong ingredient. It’s not often fatal, just irritating. I’d bought these pig’s kidneys, you see. Cheap as chips. Cheaper than chips, actually. But when I got back to the house and looked up the recipe (in A Taste of France with photographs by Robert […]

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Le Cafe Anglais

Note. This is not so much a review as a record of a particularly agreeable lunch. I wrote it during a short break in the break of the last Guardian Food Writing Course. Having commanded the cheery group who came to write their own assessment of the lunch we had shared on the Saturday, I […]

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