Whiting with cured pigs cheeks, broad beans & perry

So what do you do with your cured pigs’ cheek, once you’ve got it? Use instead of bacon, or the absurdly over-priced and variable pancetta. That’s what I’ve done in this recipe, which could do as a fancy-ish fish course in a multi-course effort, or as a simple supper on its own. Not quite on […]

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Cured Pig’s Cheek

This is the best bacon in the world. OK, it’s probably the best bacon in the world. It’s certainly the best bacon I’ve ever made. Look at the fat on it. Not to everyone’s hypersensitive taste, perhaps, but such fat, white as hoar frost, pure and delicate. And the pale tracery of meat running through […]

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To horse, to horse!

A few weeks ago I wrote about the tradition of eating horse meat in this country. I knew that Yorkshire had been the last outpost of this particular delicacy. However, I had always thought the trade had died out in the 1930s, and the precise location of Yorkshire’s last horse butcher had remained a mystery.  […]

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Shoulder of lamb braised with vinegar, garlic and anchovies

This is a variation on the great Roma dish, abbacchio alla cacciatora, which is usually made with milk-fed lamb and is served at Easter. I think it works really well with shoulder of lamb, particularly very young lamb. It gives  that cut real oomph. The vinegar may seem a bit extreme, but the acidity softens […]

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Colatura di Alici

I was wandering around the stalls of Eataly not far from Bra, the capital of Slow Food.  For those who don’t know, Eataly is a store – stores now –  dedicated to selling the finest Italian edibles and drinks that  have the Slow Food seal of approval. This particular Eataly wasn’t the huge one in […]

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Potato Salad with Colatura di Alici

The idea was given to me by Silvestro Greco,assessore all’Ambiente of the Regione Calabria, says John It’s his brainchild There’s no real recipe. you just boil the potatoes, mash them with extra virgin olive oil and chopped flat-leaf parsley, let them cool and dress them with the colatura di alici (garum). You may have some difficulty in laying your hands […]

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Broad beans – Judgement Day

The Cascina Lungha have been a let down. There’s no other way to put it. Healthy plants. Plenty of flowers. Fewer pods. But they were long and fat with promise. Keen expectation. And then crushing disappointment. The long,fat pods were like phantom pregnancies. There were few beans inside, maybe just  three or four in a […]

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