Monthly Archives: July 2011

Potato Soup with Sorrel Ice Cream

I’m very fond of sorrel, but does have a certain unrelenting quality. It produces the first green shoot in the garden, the harbinger of all the goodies to come, I welcome it with enthusiasm. After a few weeks, my enthusiasm … Continue reading

Posted in Eating In | 1 Comment

Baked Brill with cucumber & brown shrimps

I was seduced. The brill just looked so beautiful on the crushed ice,  thick, glistening, speckled a fish in shiny Connemara tweed. And I had a daughter, a nephew and his wife for dinner. How could I resist. I didn’t. … Continue reading

Posted in Eating In | Leave a comment


Nasturtium, meadowsweet, millet, orache, lovage, wood sorrel, chenopodiums (eh?), sweet cicely, verbena, hyssop, buckthorn – is there a hedgerow or coppice that hasn’t been picked over by Simon Rogan and his assiduous foragers? Over the last 8 years Rogan has … Continue reading

Posted in Eating Out | 1 Comment

The Good, The Bad & The Greedy

Rather belatedly, someone emailed me the list of the 50 top food writers according to the Press Gazette. It has proved to be the source of a great deal of innocent amusement, not least at the thought of  Jay Rayner … Continue reading

Posted in Food for Fort | 1 Comment

Salad of potatoes, broad beans, beetroot tops and anchovies

The Rosval potatoes aren’t all that I had hoped for. So handsome in their bright red skins, fine and firm in texture, but somewhat evasive in flavour. But they’re perfect for the salad treatment. I’m rather proud of my way … Continue reading

Posted in Eating In | Leave a comment

Another Butchers Arms

 It’s not often that mine host presses a fillet of pearly-fresh whiting on you, just as you’re about to leave his pub, but then Stephen Bull is no ordinary mine host. He’s a bit older than most, for a start, … Continue reading

Posted in Eating Out | Leave a comment

Gooseberry & blackcurrant compote with mint

Summertime. Or is it?  The living ain’t easy, the fish aren’t jumping and it’s cool and wet here today. Still, the gooseberries (Red Duke , a dusty purple, and deliciously sweet,  Leveller, classic, glassy green, and a touch tarter) are … Continue reading

Posted in Eating In | Leave a comment