Potato Soup with Sorrel Ice Cream

I’m very fond of sorrel, but does have a certain unrelenting quality. It produces the first green shoot in the garden, the harbinger of all the goodies to come, I welcome it with enthusiasm. After a few weeks, my enthusiasm wanes slightly, as, in spite of repeated pickings, it keeps on growing, and by halfway […]

Read More Potato Soup with Sorrel Ice Cream

Baked Brill with cucumber & brown shrimps

I was seduced. The brill just looked so beautiful on the crushed ice,  thick, glistening, speckled a fish in shiny Connemara tweed. And I had a daughter, a nephew and his wife for dinner. How could I resist. I didn’t. With brown shrimps and cucumber I thought. Don’t ask me why. The inspiration of the […]

Read More Baked Brill with cucumber & brown shrimps


Nasturtium, meadowsweet, millet, orache, lovage, wood sorrel, chenopodiums (eh?), sweet cicely, verbena, hyssop, buckthorn – is there a hedgerow or coppice that hasn’t been picked over by Simon Rogan and his assiduous foragers? Over the last 8 years Rogan has built a reputation for serious and highly individual food in Cartmel in Cumbria, famous for […]

Read More Roganic

The Good, The Bad & The Greedy

Rather belatedly, someone emailed me the list of the 50 top food writers according to the Press Gazette. It has proved to be the source of a great deal of innocent amusement, not least at the thought of  Jay Rayner (1) receiving his pontification with customary modesty, and of Adrian Gill (2) grinding his teeth, […]

Read More The Good, The Bad & The Greedy

Salad of potatoes, broad beans, beetroot tops and anchovies

The Rosval potatoes aren’t all that I had hoped for. So handsome in their bright red skins, fine and firm in texture, but somewhat evasive in flavour. But they’re perfect for the salad treatment. I’m rather proud of my way with potato salads. I’m not claiming it as unique, but it’s quite nifty. Basically, it […]

Read More Salad of potatoes, broad beans, beetroot tops and anchovies

Another Butchers Arms

 It’s not often that mine host presses a fillet of pearly-fresh whiting on you, just as you’re about to leave his pub, but then Stephen Bull is no ordinary mine host. He’s a bit older than most, for a start, and has a track record of running outstanding watering holes, first of all in London, […]

Read More Another Butchers Arms

Gooseberry & blackcurrant compote with mint

Summertime. Or is it?  The living ain’t easy, the fish aren’t jumping and it’s cool and wet here today. Still, the gooseberries (Red Duke , a dusty purple, and deliciously sweet,  Leveller, classic, glassy green, and a touch tarter) are ready for picking, and the blackcurrants (The Raven), too. There aren’t very many blackcurrant – […]

Read More Gooseberry & blackcurrant compote with mint