Potato Soup with Sorrel Ice Cream

I’m very fond of sorrel, but does have a certain unrelenting quality. It produces the first green shoot in the garden, the harbinger of all the goodies to come, I welcome it with enthusiasm. After a few weeks, my enthusiasm wanes slightly, as, in spite of repeated pickings, it keeps on growing, and by halfway […]

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Roganic

Nasturtium, meadowsweet, millet, orache, lovage, wood sorrel, chenopodiums (eh?), sweet cicely, verbena, hyssop, buckthorn – is there a hedgerow or coppice that hasn’t been picked over by Simon Rogan and his assiduous foragers? Over the last 8 years Rogan has built a reputation for serious and highly individual food in Cartmel in Cumbria, famous for […]

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The Good, The Bad & The Greedy

Rather belatedly, someone emailed me the list of the 50 top food writers according to the Press Gazette. It has proved to be the source of a great deal of innocent amusement, not least at the thought of  Jay Rayner (1) receiving his pontification with customary modesty, and of Adrian Gill (2) grinding his teeth, […]

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Another Butchers Arms

 It’s not often that mine host presses a fillet of pearly-fresh whiting on you, just as you’re about to leave his pub, but then Stephen Bull is no ordinary mine host. He’s a bit older than most, for a start, and has a track record of running outstanding watering holes, first of all in London, […]

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