Rather belatedly, someone emailed me the list of the 50 top food writers according to the Press Gazette. It has proved to be the source of a great deal of innocent amusement, not least at the thought of Jay Rayner (1) receiving his pontification with customary modesty, and of Adrian Gill (2) grinding his teeth, not so much at being relegated to second place, but at being considered less important than Jay. I don’t suppose that Jancis Robinson (9) finding herself below Fiona Beckett (8) in the wine-writing stakes. Then there are the incidental howlers. Victoria Moore (32) hasn’t written for the Guardian since Fiona Beckett took over as wine writer some months ago, and Jeffrey Steingarten (44) hasn’t had much to say about food as far as I am aware for some years years. The Guardian is extraordinarily well represented, even if Victoria Moore, who doesn’t write for the Guardian is canceled out by Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall, who does, but who is listed as simply as freelance. You wonder though, if Hugh FW makes the cut, why don’t Jamie Oliver, Gordon Ramsay, Heston Blumenthal, Nigella Lawson and Delia Smith, not to mention Tom Parker Bowles, William Sitwell, Chris Hirst, Joe Warwick and a host of others? In spite of the exhaustive nature of the research, as explained at the bottom of the list, the phrase ‘back of fag packet at the end of a long session in the Pig & Whistle’ springs to mind. And just in case anyone accuses me of bias, I should point out that one name above all is missing from this roster of the Good & the Greedy. My own. Oh, waley, waley.