Hand & Flowers

The sun was bright. The day was warm. I sat in the shade of an umbrella outside the Hand & Flowers in Marlow, that pretty Thanes-side town where the air is perfumed with money and conservative values, reading the newspaper and waiting for my daughter. There was a pint of Morlands bitter within easy reach. […]

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‘Testicles – Balls in Cooking and Culture’. There’s a title to grab the attention. 219 pages on balls by Blandine Vie, translated by Giles MacDonagh.  A subject of specialised interest if ever there was one, testicles. Not everyone’s cup of tea, I dare say. Even by my standards, it’s a bit arcane. But that’s Prospect […]

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Sweet ‘n’ sour rabbit & sausage stew

‘Hmm, it’s not the same as last year, Matty,’ said one. ‘But just as good,’ said another. ‘Just different. Not so sharp,’ said a third. Everyone’s a critic in my family. There were, what 24 of us, gathered for the fourth year running in the Monte Lucretilli, about 35 north-east of Rome. It was, as […]

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Something to chew on

Don’t love me tender.   I may be tender-hearted, but when it comes to meat, I don’t want to be caught in the tender trap. How often do is tenderness held up as the ultimate criteria of the quality of a piece of meat? ‘That steak was soooo tender.’. ‘Ooo, how tender was that’ ‘That lamb […]

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