Perhaps it’s a bit late in the day to draw anyone’s attention to it, but at last a tv series about food that manages to be perceptive, informative and diverting (aside from the Great British Menu, of course). Sicily Unpacked (9pm Friday; BBC2) is like eavesdropping on the company of two bonkers enthusiasts, who actually like each other, who have a genuine rapport, who, miracle of miracles, really speak the language of the country they are traveling round, and who are packed with different knowledge which they want to show to the other. It is a delicious and intelligent exploration of that fascinating island’s extraordinary culture and beauty. And I say this through clenched teeth because I always thought that I should be the chap to express Sicily’s fascination to the outside world, having been in love with the place for over thirty years and written a book, – Sweet Honey, Bitter Lemons based on a series of voyages on a Vespa I made there -. I wouldn’t be half as good as this hirsute duo. I hope they can do the same for mainland Italy now.