Smart, laid back, egalitarian, cheerful, cool. Copita is the model of modern metropolitan eating. It has a no booking policy. It draws in people who are smart, laid back, meritocratic, and cool, even if they aren’t necessarily egalitarian and cheerful. There’s communal eating at long, chunky wooden bar-level tables. There are creamy-toffee repro old railway […]

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Tom Aikens

Well, stone me. All is changed, changed utterly. Tom Aikens. The restaurant, not the man. Gone the suave polish of a French-inspired restaurant, the rich carpeting and heavy linen tablecloths, the weighty cutlery and waiters uniformed in black and white. Gone, too, that sense of luxury and expense and formality. Everything has been stripped back, […]

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