The Sportsman

It was a slip sole, just a slip sole, slim and elegant, glistening with seaweed butter. No sauce, no veg, no micro-herbs, nothing to distract from the individual beauty of the fish. The flesh was taut and dense, almost muscular. Its flavour had a pure sweetness. The butter carried a faint nutty richness through which […]

Read More The Sportsman

Pitt Cue

The night was wet and Pitt Cue was full. Full as in crowded, heaving, bulging at the seams. People were being turned away from the door. I only just squeaked in because I am very small and I was on my own. I also raised the average age there by about 20 years. I don’t […]

Read More Pitt Cue

That Sicilian Dinner

I started cooking at 9.15 am. The last course went off at 10.25pm. I got to bed at 2.30am. And aside from a bit of a nerve tonic at about midday, I was preparing my Sicilian dinner in the kitchens of Quo Vadis in Soho the whole time. The whole time. Not a single moment […]

Read More That Sicilian Dinner