Mount Nelson Hotel

She can’t have been more than five or six. With single-minded determination she lugged what looked to be a wrought-iron holder for a vase or wine bucket almost as tall as herself, up to the top of the short flight of steps of the Oasis breakfast terrace. Carefully she dragged it over to a small […]

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Shaun Hill

I’ve known Shaun Hill for – what? – over 25 years. He has just passed the 65 mark. It seems scarcely credible. His curly hair, which looks like a barrister’s wig, is whiter, and his tummy a little rounder than when I first met him at Gidleigh Park. But, unlike me, he still has hair […]

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Dabbous

You can’t get a table at Dabbous during the week until August. If you want to go over the weekend, you’ll have to wait until October. There hasn’t been a phenomenon like it since the Fat Duck spread its 3 Michelin-starred wings all those years ago. Among metro-centric restaurant critics, bloggerati and the grazing herd […]

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