Brown shrimp salad

I’ve always nursed a passion for these tiny crustacea ever since they proved so amenable to being caught in the murky sea on family holidays at Middleton-on-Sea when I was a boy. The only time this passion really found full expression was during my days at Lancaster University. Back then Lancaster had a superlative food […]

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Crisp Bacon Rinds

Are the perfect nibble to have with a glass of chilled manzanilla. Make that two glasses. And chilled manzanilla is the perfect drink for a warm summer’s day. Assuming we ever get a summer’s day, of course.I am particularly fond of Hidalgo Pastrana Manzanilla Pasada. First of all buy proper bacon that still has rind […]

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The Constant Gardner

It’s not often I agree with the Daily Mail. In fact I can’t think of another occasion, but a kindly email drew my attention to an article in that newspaper in which Max Hastings had included the great Dr D.G. Hessayon among his own list of 60 Truly Great Elizabethans. It was an idiosyncratic collection […]

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Report from the veg patch war zone

Damme, it’s been a tricky year. Germination has been a nightmare – I’ve had to resow carrots 3 times, peas 4 times, some broad beans twice. I strongly suspect mice have Ben making free with them. The bloody birds have played havoc with the miscuglio lettuce seeds,either eating the seeds or tearing the infant leaves […]

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Osteria dal Cavaliere

It’s not often you see horse and donkey on the same menu. The place in question was the aptly-named Osteria del Cavaliere in the Piazetta Scala in Verona. It’s more of a wine bar than a restaurant, its walls lined with serious looking bottles. I was tempted to have both the bigoli con asino and […]

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