Monthly Archives: April 2013

Savour Flavour

‘And soon, mechanically, dispirited after a dreary day with the prospect of a depressing morrow, I raised to my lips a spoonful of the tea in which I had soaked a morsel of the cake. No sooner had the warm … Continue reading

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Sweet reason

When it comes to coffee, I am something of a purist. I am a man for a single espresso. I’d rather drink two single espressos than a double. I’m also happy with a ristretto, but only in Naples, and preferably … Continue reading

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Brasserie Chavot

Suddenly they’re everywhere. After years of rigorous suppression in favour of Italian/Spanish/Modern European/Contemporary British/Ersatz Japanese-effect pastiches, French brasseries and bistros (or is it bistrots?) are back in force. In the last fewish months the Brasserie Zedel and Cafe Colbert, Balthazar … Continue reading

Posted in Eating Out | 1 Comment

Taste Test

I’ve been contributing a column about taste and flavour to an admirable new on-line magazine called Flavour First (see http://www.flavourfirst.org). I thought I would recycle them in this blog just in case some faithful followers might have missed them. At … Continue reading

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The Incredible Lightness of Being a Restaurant Critic

What is a restaurant critic but someone who a) can get a table in a restaurant when no one else can; and b) has someone else pay the bill? It’s a mystery why restaurant critics strut like peacocks and peahens … Continue reading

Posted in Eating Out, Food for Fort | 10 Comments

Soldiers on parade

SOLDIERS ON PARADE It was the usual spring weekday breakfast – soft boiled egg; soldiers + unsalted butter; coffee; blood orange juice (freshly squeezed, naturally) – and I started mulling over the question of soldiers – what is the proper … Continue reading

Posted in Food for Fort | 5 Comments