This is just about my favourite dish of 2017. Potato, fish, vinegar. Hot and cold. Rich and austere. Simple and complex. Simple, elegant, exquisite, subtle, fabulous. The potato has the texture of toffee and the floury, comforting flavour of, well, potato, and a light caramel shell; slippery, salty, fishy caviar; a dusting of vinegar powder for brightness and nostalgia. At Pollen Street Social. Thank you Jason Atherton.