Romanesco – the finest of all zucchini in my view. It has the most distinctive of flavours, fresh, nutty and delicately sweet. Best of all it stays firm when cooked instead of turning to watery mush. The only possible contender is the trombetta d’Albenga, which is more suitable for certain dishes (eg stews), but on every other level the Romanesco is the tops. Of course, it’s absurdly tricky to find in Britain, so sensibly I grow my own. Note the distinctive, heavily ridged exterior.