Brown shrimp salad

I’ve always nursed a passion for these tiny crustacea ever since they proved so amenable to being caught in the murky sea on family holidays at Middleton-on-Sea when I was a boy. The only time this passion really found full expression was during my days at Lancaster University. Back then Lancaster had a superlative food […]

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Crisp Bacon Rinds

Are the perfect nibble to have with a glass of chilled manzanilla. Make that two glasses. And chilled manzanilla is the perfect drink for a warm summer’s day. Assuming we ever get a summer’s day, of course.I am particularly fond of Hidalgo Pastrana Manzanilla Pasada. First of all buy proper bacon that still has rind […]

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Dilou’s Lemon Tart

One kind of lemon tart has become a common place of menus all over the country, great thick, globby, rich, custardy things, with an acid kick to them. This model was popularized, oh, years ago. Since then, it has taken root, been deemed a classic, a pudding to be admired, loved, downed on every possible […]

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Pheasant Ham

What happened was this. My hostess said “Would you like some pheasants?’ ‘Why, yes,’ I said, and picked up a brace. They looked very handsome in their feathers. ‘Please take some more,’ pleased my hostess. “How many?’ I said. ‘As many as you like,’ she said. ‘No one wants them.” And that seems a damn […]

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Consummate Scrambled Egg

It may seem heretical, but I think scrambled egg should taste of egg. So no cream, no milk, no flavourings, aside from and tiny amount of butter, salt and pepper. Ok, chopped parsley, tarragon or chives, if you must. But that’s it. Actually, there’s one extra ingredient – time. The slower you can cook your […]

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Chard, zucchini & tomato pie

 I first came across this idea in Michel Guerard’s imperishable Cuisine Minceur first published in France in – yikes – 1976 – and in Britain in 1977. I have made very minor changes, principally adding the zucchini because I had some Zucchini Romanesco, which are No 1 in the courgettes flavour stakes and which keep […]

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Potato Soup with Sorrel Ice Cream

I’m very fond of sorrel, but does have a certain unrelenting quality. It produces the first green shoot in the garden, the harbinger of all the goodies to come, I welcome it with enthusiasm. After a few weeks, my enthusiasm wanes slightly, as, in spite of repeated pickings, it keeps on growing, and by halfway […]

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