Grovelling Fort

I have been shamefully neglectful of my blog in recent months, and I can only apologise for those who have faithfully logged on, hoping for some fresh apercus on the shining universe of food. And I must begin with a second apology, to Henry Dimbleby and John Vincent and Michael Gove, the Minister of Education. […]

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Savour Flavour

‘And soon, mechanically, dispirited after a dreary day with the prospect of a depressing morrow, I raised to my lips a spoonful of the tea in which I had soaked a morsel of the cake. No sooner had the warm liquid mixed with the crumbs touched my palate than a shudder ran through me and […]

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Sweet reason

When it comes to coffee, I am something of a purist. I am a man for a single espresso. I’d rather drink two single espressos than a double. I’m also happy with a ristretto, but only in Naples, and preferably accompanied by a sfogliatella from Scatturchio. At a pinch I will drink a cappuccino, but […]

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Taste Test

I’ve been contributing a column about taste and flavour to an admirable new on-line magazine called Flavour First (see I thought I would recycle them in this blog just in case some faithful followers might have missed them. At the Fat Duck, they used to serve a little nibble to kick off any meal. […]

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Soldiers on parade

SOLDIERS ON PARADE It was the usual spring weekday breakfast – soft boiled egg; soldiers + unsalted butter; coffee; blood orange juice (freshly squeezed, naturally) – and I started mulling over the question of soldiers – what is the proper bread out of which to make them? White or brown, sir Sourdough or plain? Rye […]

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