Verbiage

The Roman Catholic Church used to have an Index of books (Index Librorum Prohibitorum) that the powers that be thought the world would be better off not reading. It was abolished in 1966. Although such censorship might not be seen consistent with contemporary freedom of thought and expression, I think the Catholic Church was onto […]

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A Sort of Zucchini Frittata

Things are winding down in the Fort kitchen garden, after a pretty good growing season. The climbing beans (Signora della Campagna) are still up and running, and the autumn/winter salads are looking good. Best of all, this has been a happy year for tomatoes, about which more anon when I have collated my tasting notes. […]

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Noma

There was the great man, Rene Redzepi, standing at the door of Noma, surrounded by what appeared to be a battalion of Noma staff. ‘We’ve met before’, I said, grasping him firmly by the mitt. ‘I know,’ he said.’ You bought me a pint.’ I goggled. And then I remembered. Some years I interviewed Rene […]

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Grovelling Fort

I have been shamefully neglectful of my blog in recent months, and I can only apologise for those who have faithfully logged on, hoping for some fresh apercus on the shining universe of food. And I must begin with a second apology, to Henry Dimbleby and John Vincent and Michael Gove, the Minister of Education. […]

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Savour Flavour

‘And soon, mechanically, dispirited after a dreary day with the prospect of a depressing morrow, I raised to my lips a spoonful of the tea in which I had soaked a morsel of the cake. No sooner had the warm liquid mixed with the crumbs touched my palate than a shudder ran through me and […]

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Sweet reason

When it comes to coffee, I am something of a purist. I am a man for a single espresso. I’d rather drink two single espressos than a double. I’m also happy with a ristretto, but only in Naples, and preferably accompanied by a sfogliatella from Scatturchio. At a pinch I will drink a cappuccino, but […]

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Brasserie Chavot

Suddenly they’re everywhere. After years of rigorous suppression in favour of Italian/Spanish/Modern European/Contemporary British/Ersatz Japanese-effect pastiches, French brasseries and bistros (or is it bistrots?) are back in force. In the last fewish months the Brasserie Zedel and Cafe Colbert, Balthazar and Little Pollen Street have all opened and been packing in the customers. Most, I […]

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