BRAT

  17/20 Brat? Bratwurst? Brat pan? Brat pack? Rank inbratitude? Who cares? Pure fire cooking. Pure inspired eating. Brat in Shoreditch is the playground of Tomos Parry, formerly of Kitty Fisher’s, a fabulously successful and tiny joint in Mayfair.  I can remember a time when you only went to Shoreditch in an armed convoy. It’s […]

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RUNNING TO SEED

  It’s early days yet, but I’m quietly confident that this is going to be a bumper growing season.  Mind you, I thought the same last year, and things didn’t quite go as I’d expected.  There was the usual war with nature as wave after wave of slugs and snails ravaged the tender leaves of […]

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IN A PICKLE

  Ah, rhubarb, another immigrant that made its tortuous way from Siberia, Mongolia or Northern China, or some such far-flung spot, no one seems to know, to Britain, where it was first registered 1578 by one Henry Lyte, translator and adapter of Rembert Dodoen’s perennial bestseller, Niewe Herball. Enough of history.  I suspect we love […]

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JAMMING

  It began with raspberry jam. The jam was deep, dark red, profoundly fruity, with just the right balance of sweetness, and, laid on top of unsalted butter on a buttery croissant like a carmine bedspread, it gave a life-enhancing start to the day.  I was staying at Virginia Park Lodge, Richard Corrigan’s new pleasure […]

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SEASON TICKET

The first spears of the new season’s native asparagus appeared the other day in markets, farmer’s and super. Oh dear.  The competition to produce the early asparagus reminds me of that silliness of yesteryear, the Beaujolais Nouveau Run and its attendant absurdities that used to liven up dull days for newspapers in the 1980s. What […]

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