A MATTER OF TASTE

And while I’m on the subject, I’d like to expand on my defence of tasting menus, another target  of the obloquy of our guardians of contemporary eating. For the life of me I can’t see, what on earth is wrong with them? Ok, the digestive systems and aesthetic sensibilities of those few jaded folk who […]

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FINE WHINING

A pernicious inverted snobbery is stalking the land. It’s become habitual for restaurant critics to take every opportunity to deride ‘fine dining’, as if it were some contemptible gastronomic heresy. A bit of theatrical oo-la-la, suave service, comfortable upholstery, above all, tasting menus, are held up as if they were smelly underpants, to be sniffed […]

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MAJESTIC CAFE, INGHAM, QUEENSLAND

Some restaurants are great because, like the Fat Duck, El Bulli or Noma, they change the way we look and and enjoy food. There are great restaurants because they make us feel great. And there are great restaurants that are, shall we say, sui generis.  They may not be smart. They’re certainly not fashionable. More […]

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Resurrection

After a break of, ooo, about four years, I’ve decided to bring Fort on Food back to life. The previous incarnation was laid to rest when I went off in 2014 to explore the islands of Italy, writing a blog about island hopping as I went. The journey took a little longer than anticipated, and […]

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Metamorphosis (temporary)

Dear Faithful Followers of this blog, I will not be continuing this blog as such for the time being. As some of you may be aware, I have embarked on a 6-month odyssey around the Italian islands. I have created another blog, asummerintheislands.com, in which to record the course of this splendid adventure, its high […]

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A Cause for Celebration

In spite – because of? – its name and the national range of its contributors, Petits Propos Culinaires is one of those preposterous, brilliant, unmistakably English publications. It is, according to the press release that unfurled on my desk last week, ‘the longest-running English-language journal devoted to food and food studies in the world’. Considering […]

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Ristorante del Belbo da Bardon

There are rare restaurants where you know that everything is going to be all right the moment you walk in. There’s something about the manner of the greeting, calm, warm, confident. There’s something about the way the place is decked out – not too smart, not too flashy, accommodating. There’s a comfortable chair to settle […]

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