FAT OF THE LAND

My mother was an exceptionally discerning cook, not in the earth mother sense, or as an expression of frustrated creativity, but because good food, properly prepared was a proper part of domestic life. On the eve of her 90th birthday she cooked a venison and chestnut stew for twelve of her demanding family. I have […]

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GRANNY’S HOT CHOCOLATE

Granny was responsible for the earliest gastronomic experience that I remember, when I must have been about four. Granny, my mother’s mother, lived alone in a small cottage at the bottom of the garden, and when I got bored, I’d drop in on her knowing that I would cosseted with a cup of hot chocolate […]

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À LA RECHERCHE DES BANANES PERDUES

The greatest of all laws is the Law of Unintended Consequences, and one of the unintended consequences of The Great Incarceration has been my rediscovery of the gastronomic pleasures my youth, and the greatest of these gastronomic pleasures has been banana custard. I was born in 1947 and grew up during, what is universally agreed, […]

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