EEL APPEAL

  Jellied eels – silvery, grey, wavering under blocks of wobbly, translucent jelly;  the sway and shimmer of a rock pool. An ingot of jelly  with a neat morsel of eel embalmed within it. Jelly quivers on tongue for a moment, dissolves, liquesces with a shift of salt, a wash of malt vinegar,  Teeth peels […]

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THE SAUSAGE & ME (PART 2; ADDENDUM B)

Another shrewd observation from the omniscient Gerry Danby ‘I should have added that while the exclusion of mechanically separated meat is an EU requirement arising from the definition of ‘meat’, the rest are all entirely domestic and nothing to do with the EU. We could always have had higher standards had we so chosen.’ I’m […]

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THE SAUSAGE & ME (PART 2)

You’d have thought it finding out the minimum legal requirements for ingredients in a pork sausage – lean meat, connective tissue, fat and other stuff such as rusk, seasonings and water – would be a doddle. Nothing to it. Hah! Back in 2007 the minimum meat content of a British pork sausage used to be […]

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BLOODY GOOD

  Many years ago I ordered an orange juice at the bar of the Hotel Principe e Savoia in Milan. When it arrived, I sent it back. ‘I said orange juice, not tomato juice,’ I commanded in a lordly manner. The barman sent it back again. ‘It is orange juice’, he insisted. ‘Blood orange juice.’ […]

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BEEFING UP

I don’t want lamb; I don’t want mutton; I’m not just any old glutton. I want joy; I’ll be brief I want what we all want – where’s the beef?   I don’t want fowl, I don’t want chicken; It turns my tum; it makes me sicken, It causes pain, it causes grief. There’s only […]

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FINER DINER

Silences are rare when I get together with my family, and they’re usually caused by food. So there we were, three brothers, sister and sister-in-law, in rapt contemplation of the menu at the Miss Florence Diner in Florence, Massachusetts, readying ourselves for breakfast. Ah, breakfast. There’s a challenge. The American diner or the British caff? […]

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