A SONG TO THE WARM SOUTH

Christmas is coming, and the days are dark and dank. What everyone needs is ‘a beaker full of the warm South’ to brighten their lives. I cannot promise ‘the true, the blushful Hippocrene with beaded bubbles winking at the brim, and purple stainéd mouth’, but I can promise the faithful record of the six months […]

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Fish & Chip

  This is just about my favourite dish of 2017.  Potato, fish, vinegar. Hot and cold. Rich and austere. Simple and complex. Simple, elegant, exquisite, subtle, fabulous.  The potato has the texture of toffee and the floury, comforting flavour of, well, potato, and a light  caramel shell; slippery, salty, fishy caviar; a dusting of vinegar […]

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THE SAUSAGE AND ME (Part 1)

  The question of sausages has been exercising my mind , mouth and tummy for most of my adult life. The search for the Perfect Pork Sausage has become something of a personal quest. For the knights of the Round Table, it was the Holy Grail.  For Siegfried it was the golden ring. For Dr […]

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A MATTER OF TASTE

And while I’m on the subject, I’d like to expand on my defence of tasting menus, another target  of the obloquy of our guardians of contemporary eating. For the life of me I can’t see, what on earth is wrong with them? Ok, the digestive systems and aesthetic sensibilities of those few jaded folk who […]

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FINE WHINING

A pernicious inverted snobbery is stalking the land. It’s become habitual for restaurant critics to take every opportunity to deride ‘fine dining’, as if it were some contemptible gastronomic heresy. A bit of theatrical oo-la-la, suave service, comfortable upholstery, above all, tasting menus, are held up as if they were smelly underpants, to be sniffed […]

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MAJESTIC CAFE, INGHAM, QUEENSLAND

Some restaurants are great because, like the Fat Duck, El Bulli or Noma, they change the way we look and and enjoy food. There are great restaurants because they make us feel great. And there are great restaurants that are, shall we say, sui generis.  They may not be smart. They’re certainly not fashionable. More […]

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