Category Archives: Eating Out

Restaurant reviews

Metamorphosis (temporary)

Dear Faithful Followers of this blog, I will not be continuing this blog as such for the time being. As some of you may be aware, I have embarked on a 6-month odyssey around the Italian islands. I have created … Continue reading

Posted in Eating In, Eating Out, Food for Fort | 3 Comments

Ristorante del Belbo da Bardon

There are rare restaurants where you know that everything is going to be all right the moment you walk in. There’s something about the manner of the greeting, calm, warm, confident. There’s something about the way the place is decked … Continue reading

Posted in Eating Out | 3 Comments


There was the great man, Rene Redzepi, standing at the door of Noma, surrounded by what appeared to be a battalion of Noma staff. ‘We’ve met before’, I said, grasping him firmly by the mitt. ‘I know,’ he said.’ You … Continue reading

Posted in Eating Out | 4 Comments

Brasserie Chavot

Suddenly they’re everywhere. After years of rigorous suppression in favour of Italian/Spanish/Modern European/Contemporary British/Ersatz Japanese-effect pastiches, French brasseries and bistros (or is it bistrots?) are back in force. In the last fewish months the Brasserie Zedel and Cafe Colbert, Balthazar … Continue reading

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The Incredible Lightness of Being a Restaurant Critic

What is a restaurant critic but someone who a) can get a table in a restaurant when no one else can; and b) has someone else pay the bill? It’s a mystery why restaurant critics strut like peacocks and peahens … Continue reading

Posted in Eating Out, Food for Fort | 10 Comments

The greatest restaurant in the world

Dorego’s, there’s nowhere quite like it. Never has been, I dare say. One of a kind, a sort of a bar, a sort of a restaurant, seedy, louche, easy-paced, open-hearted, democratic, with the beauty of the truly idiosyncratic, sui generis, … Continue reading

Posted in Eating Out | 2 Comments

Simpson’s Tavern

It’s always a pleasure to catch up with an old friend, particularly when you find they’ve hardly changed in, oooo, it must be forty years or so. Simpson’s Tavern, aka Simpson’s of Cornhill is one of the places to which … Continue reading

Posted in Eating Out | 1 Comment