A MATTER OF TASTE

And while I’m on the subject, I’d like to expand on my defence of tasting menus, another target  of the obloquy of our guardians of contemporary eating. For the life of me I can’t see, what on earth is wrong with them? Ok, the digestive systems and aesthetic sensibilities of those few jaded folk who […]

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FINE WHINING

A pernicious inverted snobbery is stalking the land. It’s become habitual for restaurant critics to take every opportunity to deride ‘fine dining’, as if it were some contemptible gastronomic heresy. A bit of theatrical oo-la-la, suave service, comfortable upholstery, above all, tasting menus, are held up as if they were smelly underpants, to be sniffed […]

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MAJESTIC CAFE, INGHAM, QUEENSLAND

Some restaurants are great because, like the Fat Duck, El Bulli or Noma, they change the way we look and and enjoy food. There are great restaurants because they make us feel great. And there are great restaurants that are, shall we say, sui generis.  They may not be smart. They’re certainly not fashionable. More […]

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Resurrection

After a break of, ooo, about four years, I’ve decided to bring Fort on Food back to life. The previous incarnation was laid to rest when I went off in 2014 to explore the islands of Italy, writing a blog about island hopping as I went. The journey took a little longer than anticipated, and […]

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Brasserie Joel

I remember as if it were but yesterday, the way the waiter broke the biscuity crust covering Joël Antunes’ chocolate soup and then poured a steady stream of opalescent pistachio cream on to the dark, glossy surface of the liquescent chocolate. Think of it: warm, husky, velvet chocolate,  perfumed pistachio. Now that takes a really […]

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Sarah Nelson’s Grasmere Gingerbread

“She died of exhaustion, you know,” said Andrew Turner, the present custodian of Sarah Nelson’s Grasmere Gingerbread. Mind you, she was 88 by the time she mixed her last batch of flour, sugar, butter and ginger. She’s buried in the churchyard of St Cuthbert’s Grasmere,  just behind the tiny, white painted shop-cum bakery where she […]

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