MAKE MINE MAS HUNI

It’s not often I come across a breakfast that disturbs my pantheon of personal favourites – granita di caffe con panna e brioche (Irrera 1910, Messina, Sicily) ; wild asparagus omelette (Vigna la Corte, Monte Lucretili, Lazio) ; kipper + tea, toast & marmalade (home); croissant filled with pistachio cream (Caltanisetta, Sicily) ; sfogliatelle + […]

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SINGULAR COFFEE

Charles-Maurice de Talleyrand-Périgord, 1st Prince of Benevento, 1st Prince of Talleyrand, sometime bishop, politician, and diplomat, declared that he like his coffee ‘black as the devil, hot as  hell, pure as an angel, sweet as love’. I’m with Charles-Maurice on this. Most of it anyway. That’s why I’ve never seen the point of a double espresso. […]

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PORRIDGE PECCADILLO

Breakfast at this time of year is a healthy purgatory for me. December to March is season for porridge. Porridge (Flavahan’s Organic Oats)  made slowly with just water and a little salt, at that. I turn my face away from the delights of eggs and sausages and bacon and kippers and toast and croissants and […]

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NOZETI’S LOAF

  The loaf weighs 4 kg. It measures 27.5 cm across and is 9 cm deep. . The upper crust is thin, the colour of toffee. The crust below is thin and burnt. The crumb is white. It comes wrapped in a voluminous white damask cloth. It is the best bread in the world, Untoasted, […]

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RIPPER KIPPER

When Some people are happy to eat kippers for lunch, and others at supper, but for me, kippers are for breakfast. Which Craster kippers have their devotees. I’ve heard kippers from Loch Fyne highly spoken of.There is a great tradition of kippers from Mallaig and Stornaway, and there are a number of dedicated one-man band, […]

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ROMAN CARNIVAL

My daughter, Lois,  and I spent a very happy few days with my brother, Johnny, and his wife, Emma, in Rome a weekend or so ago. Rome (and Italy in general) may be going through a rough patch at the moment, but there’s not other city or country I would rather visit, particularly when I […]

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NO VEGETATING

  It can hardly escaped anyone’s notice that it’s been a busy day or two on the vegan and vegetarian front . Today is World Vegan Day, for a start. Waitrose have produced a report noting the irresistible rise of non-meat eating. William Sitwell, the editor of Waitrose Food Illustrated for 20 years lost his […]

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