MAKE MINE A MANGALITZA

The boulder of meat above is a bit of a Mangatitza (aka Mankalica and Mangalitsa), the magnificent pig of Hungary that has a fleece like a sheep, develops fat with magnificent aplomb   and stores mineralized nuggets in that fat called grammel, nature’s own dietary supplement. The Mangalitza has become something of a fashionable pig […]

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HIDE

  18/20  A palace of marvels, on many levels; for the epicure as well as the hedonist.  How often do you come across a new pudding worthy to join the great pantheon of British classics? I can only think of one, maybe two, both products of the Fat Duck team in the Golden Period – […]

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A SHORT MEDITATION ON BREAKFAST

      ‘He that would eat a good dinner, let him eat a good breakfast’. English Proverbs, John Ray  What is life without breakfast?  It is the civilized ritual by which we slide down the slipway into the whirling maelstrom of  life. Breakfast gives us hope and nourishment. On the rare occasions I am forced […]

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THE COACH

  16.5/20. Tom Kerridge country. Bountiful, lively, informal. Not your average pub grub. Top tucker, with the familiar Kerridge ingredients – rippling, muscular flavours with exquisite delicacy of touch.  My brother, James,  and I went for a walk yesterday along the Kennet & Avon Canal. Reading to Aldermaston.  32,523 steps. 20 km, give or take. […]

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BLOODY GOOD BLOODY MARY

I knew it was a good idea as soon as I saw it: adding a dash or two of Angostura bitters to a Bloody Mary. I was leafing through my mother’s red file box of recipes, and there, after Beetroot Soup (Armenian), Bent Biscuit  and Biscuit Tortoni, was Blood Mary. My mother belonged to a […]

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THE ICE CREAM MAKER COMETH

  The sun is shining. The air is warm. It seems that summer is upon us in spring. It’s ice cream time. An ice cream is, or should be, a source of joy in a tricky world. Cool, downy, soothing, a billowing cloud of creamy delight, carrying a bold blast of strawberry, chocolate, vanilla, coffee, […]

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